Everything is prickly in the desert (week 2)
We decided to take the self guided tour through Carlsbad caverns and the long winding path (rather than the elevator) down to the cave floor, 750 feet below. Gigantic room after gigantic room opened up as we went, all filled with the most exquisite formations: stalactites and stalagmites, columns and pools, dripstones and big round pearls, straws and popcorn. Everyone was encouraged to whisper, so the caverns were pleasantly quiet most of the way through. There were so many wonderful things to look at that our heads eventually felt full; we couldn't take in any more of the awesome sights. What a place!
Continuing westward, we took a scenic route through the Lincoln National Forest where yellow grasses and prickly bushes turned to giant evergreens. Then, as the mountains opened up on the valley below, we spied a line of shimmering white in the distance: our next destination
White Sands National Monument is the biggest deposit of tiny little gypsum crystals carved by the wind from selenite crystals that formed around an ancient lake bed. It's surrounded on all sides by a huge military base; the northern portion holds the Trinity site, the site of the very first atomic bomb detonation. Needless to say, the National Monument and the military don't get along too well; the base is used for missile tests, and sometimes stray missiles fall into the dunes.
Camping was full that night, but the rangers recommended a little spot nearby, not on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands but on a corner of the base which was free for public use. Reassuringly, we were not the only ones there. At night, chattering coyotes woke me up several times, getting closer each time, and I heard some curious ones sniffing around our tent. Most of the ground was too hard to check for tracks, but in the morning I found a softer spot nearby which confirmed my suspicions: they had had a big nocturnal social gathering just across the road.
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The next day we got our backcountry camping permits, and set out into the white expanse.
The dunes were absolutely breathtaking; because they are so white, they reflect much of the sunlight, never getting hot. Strangely, the flat areas in between the dunes were crusty and wet; I keep forgetting to research it, but I believe it has something to do with gypsum being water soluble. We considered spending a few nights in the desert, but changed our minds after the first sleepless night. The wind kept whipping around in all directions, negating any protection the dune had to offer, pummeling our tent all night and breaking our shade structure. (The wind forecast was similar throughout the week - typical for early spring).
At least we were up in time for the sunrise! We ran up the dune, dancing around in the freezing dawn light, the wind blasting our naked feet and ankles with sharp little sand crystals. It was a harsh environment, but very much worth the cold, sleepless night.
We spent a night recovering in a hotel room, detoured north to hike around a petroglyph site, and made our way to a campsite in the Organ Mountains National Monument.
As we drove into the park, the sun cast its last rays on giant, ragged peaks and across the yellow grassy valley below. From here, we could still see White Sands. On the mountainside, the vegetation became a bit greener and denser, still punctuated by pointy yucca plants, cholla and prickly-pear cacti, and came alive with birds of all sorts. We found this spot so beautiful that we decided to stay four nights.
The dunes were absolutely breathtaking; because they are so white, they reflect much of the sunlight, never getting hot. Strangely, the flat areas in between the dunes were crusty and wet; I keep forgetting to research it, but I believe it has something to do with gypsum being water soluble. We considered spending a few nights in the desert, but changed our minds after the first sleepless night. The wind kept whipping around in all directions, negating any protection the dune had to offer, pummeling our tent all night and breaking our shade structure. (The wind forecast was similar throughout the week - typical for early spring).
At least we were up in time for the sunrise! We ran up the dune, dancing around in the freezing dawn light, the wind blasting our naked feet and ankles with sharp little sand crystals. It was a harsh environment, but very much worth the cold, sleepless night.
We spent a night recovering in a hotel room, detoured north to hike around a petroglyph site, and made our way to a campsite in the Organ Mountains National Monument.
As we drove into the park, the sun cast its last rays on giant, ragged peaks and across the yellow grassy valley below. From here, we could still see White Sands. On the mountainside, the vegetation became a bit greener and denser, still punctuated by pointy yucca plants, cholla and prickly-pear cacti, and came alive with birds of all sorts. We found this spot so beautiful that we decided to stay four nights.
I also accidentally pierced my hand on a yucca and stepped on a painful prickly thing of some sort which immediately reminded me of stepping on similar things in Africa. Luis even found pine cones with spikes on them. Prickly! My foot was tender for two days, but luckily I had plenty of time to relax.
On our last day, we drove to the other side of the mountains and walked 8km of trails to see a small spring, an old hotel and sanatorium, and a cave that has been inhabited on and off since 5000 BC. Its paintings had unfortunately been vandalized. We saw our second roadrunner and our first snake - not a rattler, though, it's still a bit too early in the season for them.
It's hard to believe we've only been gone two weeks and already seen so many beautiful sights!
On our last day, we drove to the other side of the mountains and walked 8km of trails to see a small spring, an old hotel and sanatorium, and a cave that has been inhabited on and off since 5000 BC. Its paintings had unfortunately been vandalized. We saw our second roadrunner and our first snake - not a rattler, though, it's still a bit too early in the season for them.
It's hard to believe we've only been gone two weeks and already seen so many beautiful sights!