And then there were forests (week 11)
There is a clear lack of BLM lands on the California coast, and a great number of small towns and cities; we hadn't yet been in such a crowded region, and it was starting to feel a bit oppressive. We picked up the pace, heading to Redwoods National and State Parks, which protect North America's last 10% of Sequoia Sempervirens, the world's tallest trees, which can live thousands of years.
Luckily, we arrived just as the winds were dying down; falling branches in Redwood forests are called widow-makers for a reason! We spent a night backcountry camping on a hillside near the ocean, then moved on to the northern area of the park, where the biggest trees are. Following a rangers' suggestion, we found a beautiful and free camping spot in the nearby national forest on the edge of a clear teal river. The redwood forests were magical; we went for hikes, slowly weaving through the giants, enjoying the forest smells. My knee pain was worsening with the increase is humidity, so we limited ourselves to some easy trails.
Continuing on the coastal road north, we arrived at Thor's Well in Oregon in the afternoon; the blue ocean hammered the jagged coast, leaking into the 20 foot deep Well. It was not nearly as impressive as photos I'd seen of it, but we were happy to have stopped in the area anyway. Opting for another potential dispersed campsite, we followed a narrow winding forest road through dense woods and logging clear cuts, eventually finding a small secluded spot to spend the night. A big bear poop nearby prompted us to make some extra noise and be a bit more alert, though the mountain lion tracks I found close to our tent at the riverside campsite were much more unsettling. Rain was coming; we hoped we'd manage to stay dry overnight, and decided to book our very first AirBnB in Portland for a few nights to avoid most of the wet weather.