Southern Deserts and Karoos
...and wildlife, finally!
Namibia: Oshakati - Etosha - Outjo - Finger Rock - Brandberg - Swakopmund - Windhoek (Left the truck) - Okahandja - Okonjima - Etosha - Twyfelfontein - Uis - Swakopmund - Windhoek - Sesriem - Luderitz - Fish River Canyon - Keetmanshoop - Bagatelle GR - Windhoek (26 days); South Africa: Cape Town - Outdshoorn - Cango Caves - The Crags - Cape Town (11.5 days)
If you’ve read this blog from the start, you’ll already know that I love deserts; Namibia happens to have quite a variety of them, as well as a very low population density, an interesting mix of people, and lots of wildlife—a recipe which quickly bumped Namibia up into my one of my favorite places in the world.
Crossing the northern Bushveld—with its low trees, cacti, rocky hills and striking mountains—we found ourselves surrounded by the jagged rocks of the Namib Desert which eventually gave way to the flat, blinding white sands of the Skeleton Coast, aptly named after the skeletons of countless ships who rest along its shore. Farther south, dunes started taking shape—in whites and yellows and, eventually, reds—rising from the ocean and stretching far inland. With the high winds from the coast and the steep rise of the sand, the dunes in Namibia are some of the largest in the world.
If you’ve read this blog from the start, you’ll already know that I love deserts; Namibia happens to have quite a variety of them, as well as a very low population density, an interesting mix of people, and lots of wildlife—a recipe which quickly bumped Namibia up into my one of my favorite places in the world.
Crossing the northern Bushveld—with its low trees, cacti, rocky hills and striking mountains—we found ourselves surrounded by the jagged rocks of the Namib Desert which eventually gave way to the flat, blinding white sands of the Skeleton Coast, aptly named after the skeletons of countless ships who rest along its shore. Farther south, dunes started taking shape—in whites and yellows and, eventually, reds—rising from the ocean and stretching far inland. With the high winds from the coast and the steep rise of the sand, the dunes in Namibia are some of the largest in the world.
For my readers who don’t care too much for different colours of rock, rest assured! Namibia has more to offer. I was pleasantly surprised to learn about the myriad of life that lives on or below the dunes, from the world’s biggest scorpion (sadly, I didn’t come across any) to cute little geckos and a whole range of beetles, scavengers, and small furry creatures.
If it’s the bigger animals you’re after, no problem! Namibia has those, too, including a phenomenal national park wrapped around an enormous salt pan (which is, more often than not, bone dry and deadly hot—except when the rains come every decade or so. DECADE.)
If it’s the bigger animals you’re after, no problem! Namibia has those, too, including a phenomenal national park wrapped around an enormous salt pan (which is, more often than not, bone dry and deadly hot—except when the rains come every decade or so. DECADE.)
If people are more your cup of tea, you’ll be delighted to find out that Namibia has some very interesting history—from rock paintings and carvings that’ll give you goosebumps of awe to wars and genocide which may make you queasy, more languages than I can count, and colourful, diverse, and friendly people. Only one word of caution: when traveling in a group, most (all?) of them will include visits to traditional villages (typically a stop at Herero gift markets, perhaps a desert walk with the San, and an hour or two with the Himba). While these visits can benefit both you, the traveler, and the tribe, it is also possible to fall into an awkward situation where a third party (the “guide”) is benefiting greatly from your generosity while the people you are going out of your way to meet are left with little more than feeling like a human zoo. No, not all tours or expeditions are like this, but yes, it is worth doing some research beforehand. Maybe you decide to travel Namibia on your own, which is quite doable, and maybe instead of taking the well-traveled route to the gated village, you meet someone at a market, strike up a chat, and get invited. You didn’t need a whole chicken to yourself, anyway, right? :)
If I had to choose one favorite country along this trip, Namibia would be it. It was an all around amazing experience. It’s also where I finally said goodbye to the truck, earlier than planned, but I was feeling done with my temporary (and dysfunctional) family, wanted to delay my inevitable return home, and couldn’t leave Namibia after only one week (so I stayed two weeks more).
If I had to choose one favorite country along this trip, Namibia would be it. It was an all around amazing experience. It’s also where I finally said goodbye to the truck, earlier than planned, but I was feeling done with my temporary (and dysfunctional) family, wanted to delay my inevitable return home, and couldn’t leave Namibia after only one week (so I stayed two weeks more).
The little bit I saw of South Africa was stunning, the activities I did were fun and educational, and I had a great time, but I was not happy to see the all too familiar wealth gap. It’s that gap, not simply poverty, which really makes a population unhappy.
I found the nature-oriented activities a little tricky to navigate; there are so many tours, so many private reserves, and so many enticing animal interactions, but many of them are harmful to the wildlife they promote. A bit of research quickly reveals that playing with lions, riding elephants, or watching any animal put on a show basically always involves some heart-wrenchingly cruel practices. Wild animals have to be broken to be safe around people.
I found the nature-oriented activities a little tricky to navigate; there are so many tours, so many private reserves, and so many enticing animal interactions, but many of them are harmful to the wildlife they promote. A bit of research quickly reveals that playing with lions, riding elephants, or watching any animal put on a show basically always involves some heart-wrenchingly cruel practices. Wild animals have to be broken to be safe around people.
Interestingly, it was in Cape Town that my culture shock started sinking in. The multi-million dollar condos, fancy cars, gated communities, extravagant restaurants, and the familiar fast food logos inspired in me a sense of dread. I spent much time reflecting on the human condition and on the world we’ve built for ourselves. What interesting creatures we are! What big sparkling castles we build on such shaky foundations.
Before I knew it, it was time for the most tiring and stressful part of the journey: 52 sleepless hours on my way back to default life.
Before I knew it, it was time for the most tiring and stressful part of the journey: 52 sleepless hours on my way back to default life.